Photo: Kakidai — CC BY-SA 3.0 · source
Survives zone 6 through 9
Harvest calendar
Best planted in early spring after your last frost, or in fall before the ground freezes, depending on your climate.
The fruit is intensely sour and astringent when raw, so it is almost never eaten fresh — instead it is pickled into salty-sour umeboshi, brewed into umeshu plum wine, or simmered into syrups and sauces. ⚠ Kernels/pits cyanogenic.
- Hardiness
- Zone 6–9
- Habit
- Tree
- Edible part
- Fruit
- Ripens
- Summer–autumn
- Mature size
- Small tree 4–10 m
- Light
- Full sun
- Soil pH
- 6.0–7.0 (near-neutral)
- Environment
- Subtropical
- Native range
- Native to southern China, particularly the Yangtze River basin, and long cultivated in Japan, Korea, and Vietnam
- Status
- Cultivated
- Years to fruit
- 2–4 yrs
- Growth speed
- 45–60 cm/year when young, slowing with age
- Spacing
- 400 cm (157 in) apart — about 16 m² (172 sq ft) per plant
- Leaf shape
- Broadly ovate with a wedge-shaped base and a long tapering (acuminate) tip, finely serrulate margins, dark green above and downy along the veins beneath.
- Root system
- Worth knowing that in cultivation this is usually the rootstock's root system, not the species' — most Prunus are sold grafted, and vigour, suckering and soil tolerance follow the stock rather than the top. On its own roots the species is shallow-rooted, with the bulk in the top 40–60 cm spreading well beyond the canopy, so it dislikes cultivation underneath and competes badly with grass.
- Fruit description
- Round, downy-skinned drupes about 2–3 cm across, ripening yellow-green often blushed red, with tart, firm flesh clinging to a hard, pitted stone.
- Propagation
- By seed (slow and variable), by semi-hardwood cuttings taken in early summer and treated with rooting hormone, or — most commonly for named cultivars — by T-budding or chip-budding onto Prunus cerasifera (cherry plum) rootstock; grafted trees flower in about two years versus three from seed.
- Pollination
- Naturally self-incompatible — plant two cultivars for reliable fruit, though some self-compatible cultivars have been bred for single-tree planting
The edible parts listed above are a starting point, not a field guide. Identify a plant with certainty — ideally against a local authority — before eating any part of it, and read the full disclaimer. Spotted something wrong? Report it.
Growing guide
Fertilizing. Prefers slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5–6.5) and needs only light feeding — a single early-spring application of a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer is enough, since excess nitrogen is a leading cause of poor flowering.
Growing tips. Blooms in mid-to-late winter before leafing out, so open flowers are frequently damaged by hard frosts, though staggered bud dormancy means later buds often still open after a cold snap; prune right after flowering since it blooms on the previous year's wood; can suffer from bacterial canker.
Grow journal
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