Photo: James St. John — CC BY 2.0 · source
Survives zone 3 through 9
Harvest calendar
Best planted in early spring after your last frost, or in fall before the ground freezes, depending on your climate.
Starchy tubers cooked (boiled, roasted, fried) — a nutty, potato-like staple with roughly three times potato's protein; young pods, shoots and flowers also edible cooked. Tubers best harvested autumn to spring after 2+ seasons; borne like beads strung along the rhizome.
- Hardiness
- Zone 3–9
- Habit
- Vine
- Edible part
- Root, Shoot, Flower, Seed, Fruit
- Ripens
- Autumn
- Mature size
- Twining perennial vine 1–6 m; ⚠ spreads into colonies via rhizome — contain it
- Light
- Full sun to partial
- Soil pH
- 6.0–7.5 (nitrogen-fixing; tolerates poor soil)
- Environment
- Wetland
- Native range
- Eastern North America, from Ontario and Quebec south to Florida and Texas — damp thickets, riverbanks and the margins of wet woodland. A staple food of many Indigenous nations, and credited with keeping the Pilgrims alive through their first winters.
- Status
- Both wild and cultivated
- Years to fruit
- 3–5 yrs
- Growth speed
- Fast — 1–2 m of twining stem in a season once the tubers are established
- Spacing
- 45 cm (18 in) apart — about 4.9 per m² (4.6 per 10 sq ft)
- Leaf shape
- Alternate and pinnate with five to seven ovate, pointed leaflets on a twining stem — a bean's leaf, which is what it is.
- Root system
- A string of tubers strung along underground rhizomes like beads on a necklace, usually 20–60 cm down, joined by wiry runners — a colony rather than a single crown. Nitrogen-fixing root nodules come with it. That running habit is exactly why the record warns about containment.
- Fruit description
- Not the crop, though the pods are edible: narrow bean pods 5–12 cm, cooked like a green bean when young, and the ripe seeds cooked like a lentil. Many clones are triploid and set no pods at all. The tuber is what you grow it for — 2–5 cm, brown-skinned and white-fleshed, with roughly three times the protein of a potato.
- Propagation
- Plant tubers in spring, exactly as for potatoes; the small tubers along a runner are all viable. Seed is possible where a clone sets it but is slow and variable.
- Pollination
- Insect-pollinated; many clones set seed poorly, but the crop is the tuber, not the seed
The edible parts listed above are a starting point, not a field guide. Identify a plant with certainty — ideally against a local authority — before eating any part of it, and read the full disclaimer. Spotted something wrong? Report it.
Growing guide
Fertilizing. Nitrogen-fixing legume that needs little supplemental feeding; a light, balanced feed in spring and again in summer is sufficient, since excess nitrogen favors vine growth over tuber production.
How it spreads. Spreads by a chain of enlarging tubers along its underground roots as well as by twining stems above ground; established plantings can spread indefinitely and are difficult to fully remove, so give it a dedicated, contained bed.
Growing tips. Needs a trellis, fence, or shrub to climb, and dislikes windy sites. Tubers take two to three years to reach a worthwhile size, and the best yields come from leaving a planting undisturbed for at least two growing seasons.
Grow journal
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